The first place we visited was the famously controversial Yasukuni-jinja, where millions of Japanese soldiers who died in battle are enshrined. Many countries, China and South Korea in particular, are up in arms about Prime Minister Junichiro Koizumi's regular visits to the shrine, saying that in honouring the war dead he is also honouring several war criminals who are enshrined there too. However, I think due to a combination of severe jet lag, the stifling 34 degree heat and extreme humidity, most of this was lost on the folks as we dashed to the nearest convenience store for ice cream.